Castilla y León: the multiple wine identities of an historic region
Located in northwestern Spain, Castilla y León was and remains one of the most significant historical and viticultural territories in Spain, home to some of the world's finest estates.
The wine industry was so well reputed in old 'Castilla' that regulations were issued to control production and protect quality. The wines of the region were highly prized and favored by royalty and merchants.
An extreme region around the duero river
The region is completely landlocked, with a marked continental climate. Extreme temperatures are the norm, both in summer (reaching 40ºC) and winter (dropping to -10ºC), though slightly tempered by the Atlantic influence in the northern areas. The frost period extends from October to May, with late spring frosts presenting a recurring hazard.
Many of the major winegrowing areas in Castilla y León are situated around the Duero River (or its tributaries), and surrounded by mountain ranges. Traditionally, vines were bush trained ('vaso') to help provide the grapes some relief from the severe summer heat, and conserve the available water. But many growers have since decided to shift to 'espaldera' (VSP) trellising for productivity and mechanization reasons.
Great diversity of grapes and styles, beyond Tempranillo
Red grapes are clearly dominant in the region, and among them, Tempranillo is king. Known by a number of local synonyms (Tinto Fino, Tinta del País, Tinta de Toro), it performs remarkably well in wines from the region.
In the northwest part of the region, other red grapes take the lead: Mencía in Bierzo, and Prieto Picudo in Tierra de León and Valles de Benavente.
Unlike the rest of the region, DOP Rueda focuses on white wines and the indigenous Verdejo is the key player, even when it’s sometimes blended with Sauvignon Blanc.
DOP Ribera del Duero: Tempranillo to its fullest expression
Situated along the banks ('ribera' in Spanish) of the Duero River, this is Spain’s second-largest appellation by volume (only behind Rioja). Its location has historically been considered desirable for growing vines and both Cistercian and Benedictine monks established monasteries here during the Middle Ages. There's a vast series of interconnected underground cellars still in use today.
Tempranillo (locally known as Tinto Fino or Tinta del País) is leading here (accounting for 95% of the vineyards). The DOP requires a minimum of 75% Tempranillo for its red wines, but most producers are using 100%. Following the tradition of a handful of historical French-influenced estates in the area (i.e., Vega Sicilia), some winemakers include a certain amount of Bordeaux varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot) in the blend.
The combined effect of inland location and high elevation (one of the highest in Europe), results in an extreme continental climate with extensive temperature range. This results in fuller, more tannic, and riper expression of Tempranillo, when compared to wines from cooler and less-continental locations such as Rioja. Oak aging is a common practice, as it tames tannins and adds further complexity. DOP Ribera del Duero requires longer aging times than the average Spanish age designations (Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva).
DOP Toro: the heritage of old, pre-phylloxera vines
Wines from Toro were part of Columbus’ first trip to the New World, as they were prized throughout the region for their commitment to quality, a vein of which still remains in some of the wines produced in the area today. Though it is noted that they were also sought out for the wines ability to withstand lengthy sea voyages.
As in Ribera del Duero, the climate in Toro is extremely continental. Its sandy soils boast many old and ungrafted pre-phylloxera bush vines, many of which can traced back 80 years. The dominant grape is the Tempranillo (known as 'Tinta de Toro' here), which produces ripe, bold and fruit-forward wines with vibrant acidity, which expresses a different side of the grape when compared to nearby Ribero del Duero or Rioja. They are also known for the ability to age extremely well in oak.
DOP Rueda: the homeland of Verdejo
It is the homeland of Verdejo, even though, the region was historically known for producing a top-tier fortified wine ('vinos de la Tierra de Medina'), lauded and coveted by Queen Isabella.
After phylloxera hit the region in the late 19th century, vineyards were replanted with Palomino Fino and the focus shifted to bulk wine production. But in the 1970s, Francisco Hurtado de Amézaga - director of the Rioja-based estate Marqués de Riscal - chose Rueda as the place in which to grow grapes produced for a crisp, fresh and fruit-forward white wine.
This led him to Verdejo and his success with this grape was a catalyst for change. Today, Verdejo is the Appellations signature wine, making up 87% of all white wine plantings. In the blends Verdejo must make up 50 percent of DOP Rueda wines and 85 percent in the Rueda Superiore. Nowadays winemakers are seeking more traditional and pure expressions of Verdejo and are turning to terroir-driven, Verdejo - Sauvignon blends unlike the previously dominant Verdejo – Viura wines.
DOP Bierzo: an Atlantic stronghold in northwest Castilla, ruled by Queen Mencía
Even within the Castilla y León geographical boundaries, Bierzo has its own identity across the board. Its climate is similar to inland Galicia (due to the marked Atlantic influence), with milder temperatures and higher levels of rain and humidity. It is here the Mencía grape calls home, a thin-skinned grape producing lively, elegant and light-bodied red wines. Tempranillo is not even authorized by DOP Bierzo (something exceptional in Castilla y León region).
Vines are planted on terraces (man-made structures, where horizontal stonewalls provide support for the slopes, while preserving the benefits of a hillsides exposure to sunlight's) along the Sil River in soils heavy with granite and slate.
DOP Cigales: a hidden rosé gem in Castilla
Situated in the center of the region, the area is mostly known for its 'rosados' (rosé wines), some of which are also called “claretes” (a very lightly coloured red wine often considered a dark rose’), produced using the traditional red wine method by crushing the grape varieties together and vinifying this juice after a short period of skin contact, unlike rose’ which is fermented in the white wine style, without skin.
Since the introduction of stainless-steel tanks and temperature-controlled facilities in the 1990s, 'rosados' have transitioned to a fresher, less-oxidative style. At the same time many winemakers in the area are successfully producing excellent red wines.
This led him to Verdejo and his success with this grape was a catalyst for change. Today, Verdejo is the Appellations signature wine, making up 87% of all white wine plantings. In the blends Verdejo must make up 50 percent of DOP Rueda wines and 85 percent in the Rueda Superiore. Nowadays winemakers are seeking more traditional and pure expressions of Verdejo and are turning to terroir-driven, Verdejo - Sauvignon blends unlike the previously dominant Verdejo – Viura wines.
Tinta del País (Tempranillo) is the main grape in the area, used both for 'rosados' and reds.
Many Cigales estates have preserved the old, historic cellars, dug 10m below ground, and still use them for wine storage.
VT Castilla y León: beyond the limits
Covering the entire Castilla y León autonomous community, this 'umbrella' appellation provides flexibility to winemakers in the region who wish to experiment beyond the limits of their local DOPs (authorized grapes, styles). All styles of wine and 37 grape varietals (18 red, 19 white) are authorized under the VT label.
It’s also worth mentioning the area of Sardón de Duero, located to the west of Ribera del Duero, and part of the ‘Golden Mile’ (La Milla de Oro) out of the DOP limits and along the Duero river. The area is known for its special microclimate and is the home of some of Spain's most renowned wineries.
Due in part to its ancient winemaking traditions, which were established by the Romans. Here their world-class wines are under the VT label, as despite their renown and reputation they are not an official appellation
Frequently asked questions:
What is so special about wines from Castilla y León?Concentrated, terroir-driven red Garnacha wines from some of the oldest vines in Europe.
What are the most popular grape varieties in Castilla y León?Tempranillo (locally known as “Tinta del País”, “Tinto Fino” or “Tinta de Toro”) in Ribera del Duero, Cigales and Toro. Verdejo in Rueda, Mencía in Bierzo.
What types of food works well with wines from Castilla y León?Full-bodied Tempranillo reds from Ribera del Duero and Toro: Roast lamb (local “lechazo”), red meats, suckling pig Verdejo whites from Rueda: Grilled fish, shellfish, vegetables (even asparagus) Rosés from Cigales: seafood pasta, sushi, tandoori chicken, grilled vegetables